How It's Done...
What is French polish?
Simply put, it is the exudation of a beetle, formed into cakes then dissolved in spirit. We know it as Shellac; mainly its use was confined to the Far East until traders introduced it to Europe. Then refined by the French, hence its name. As to when, is in some doubt, but the early 18th Century is often quoted for its introduction into Britain. Prior to that Wax polishing was the norm, said to be perfected in antiquity by Monks.
New Methods
There has always been a search for faster and cheaper ways to apply a finish to furniture. The industrial chemists created the lacquers of many types; the engineers gave us the machinery to use them. Now new technology begger’s belief. Not only the woodworking tools, but also the finishing machines can be automated.Watching flat pack furniture being polished is akin to being in a print works, and just as boring.
Survival of a Craft
French polishing is time consuming, no doubts there, so how did it manage to survive? The answer lies in the need for skilled polishers to work outside the large factories; in small workshops, and in such trades as shop and store fitting. Without doubt repair work has been its main saviour.
Do it Yourself
A question often asked is ‘Could I do it myself?’ the answer is yes, but to start keep it simple. You will need a dust free, clean workplace dry and warm. French polish ‘chills’ if subjected to cold or damp, that means it takes on a milky look, called a bloom.
Basic Materials Required
There are many names to confuse the beginner the most common being French polish its self, it gets called Button polish, Best button polish, Dark polish, White polish, Outside polish, Red, Black, and so on. All you need to be concerned with is that your polish has a Shellac base, there are on the market synthetic polishes, these do not possess the same hard durability. Try to obtain Best Button Polish this gives a pleasant golden colour, and a hard finish when dry.
To apply the polish you will need to make a devise called a ‘Rubber’. This is made from Wadding (not surgical, that compacts down too hard) and a piece of lint free cloth, about the size of a handkerchief. Also needed will be an airtight container, a large Jam jar will be fine, this will be needed to keep the Rubber damp once it has been charged with polish. Linseed oil, raw linseed. not boiled. Methylated Spirit. Fine sandpaper, known as Flour paper, (not always easy to find) and some old rags.
Work Piece. Test
It is advisable to try out you polishing upon a test piece, prepared to the same standard as your main work piece. This should sanded with the grain, to as fine a standard as possible, and be dust free.
Making a Rubber
Take a small handful of wadding, spread it flat, and carefully dribble your polish on, charge with enough to make the whole surface damp. Next compress into a ball, at this stage it should be now possible to squeeze out a little polish from the ball, avoid over charging. Place the ball of wadding into the centre of the cloth, fold to left and right with a little pressure this will tend to form a pear shape. Continue to fold neatly from the front forming a point if possible; the tail is then coiled around the back of the rubber. It is not a bad idea to first practice making a rubber without any polish. Also be mindful that as a beginner your hands are going to get really sticky, this is where the Meths will come in handy to wash the polish off.
Starting to Polish
The work must first be ‘Sealed’, so with a fairly wet rubber apply your polish to all of the surfaces to be seen, pushing the polish into the grain and the corners. Allow drying thoroughly, (not forgetting to put the Rubber into the airtight container) When dry you may then de-nib with very fine sand paper. Dust off, and you are ready to start polishing again. Using straight overlapping strokes apply the polish evenly over the work, as you progress the rubber may be re-charged, unfold and tighten each time. As the wadding compacts it should be possible to form a better point at the front of the rubber. This will help the quirks and corners to get polished. Stop when things get sticky, and they will, if the rubber is too wet. Continue when dry.
Finishing
Straight rubbers are fine for many jobs, however you may wish for a better gloss. This is where the linseed oil plays a part; dab a little onto the face of the rubber make a few strokes to spread the oil over the surface then it may be possible to work in circular or figure of eight motions apply, more oil if needed. This process is called ‘Bodying up’ When happy with the amount of ‘shine’ again use straight rubbers, until the oil streaks are almost gone
Stiffing Off
The term ‘Stiffing off’ explains the feel of dragging when making the final finishing strokes. Wet the rubber just a little more than usual; flatten it on a clean surface, Then using overlapping strokes work away from the body, care must be taken here, the surface may tear up if too dry. Hopefully you will now have a pleasing finish, if not do try again and good luck.
Advanced Finishing
The above information concerns only basic French polishing. Full grain high gloss polishing is mostly carried out with spray lacquers and buffing machines. However the advanced novice can progress to this stage, this entails the use of Filler for the grain, then a spirit rubber for finishing off, here much experience is needed to avoid the many pitfalls common to what was in all respects called ‘Piano Finish’.
Cleaning Up
The use of Methylated is not recommended for cleaning the skin. Common Soda is by far the best; a small handful in very hot water will if rubbed on the hands with a piece of rough cloth remove all trace of polish. Rinse with fresh water.